Christmas Chihuahua Sweater

Merry Christmas

Someone recently asked for a chihuahua sweater for a male dog.  As requested, here it is.  It’s cut up away from the belly on the bottom so that the boys can do their business without soiling the hem of the sweater.

I will not be including instructions for the color work, only because I’ve had enough pattern writing today.

oh yeah, all the important stuff:

Lion Brand Wool-Ease in Red Sprinkle (I’m going to guess 60 yards or 1/3 of a skein), size 6 double pointed needles, needle to sew in ends, smooth waste yarn (for 2nd version, a small amount of contrasting yarn)

gauge: about 5 stitches to the inch

I’m writing the same pattern twice and leaving out the color work.  The first version is row by row.  If you don’t need all that, the short and simple version is at the bottom.

Disclaimer: I am not a professional pattern writer.  I just have a small dog who is cold.  Please don’t be rude about correcting my work or asking me to rewrite it for your 100lb dog (no offense to 100lb dogs, but I don’t buy that much yarn at a time).

The long version:

Cast on 40 stitches, distribute over 3 needles

Knit 1×1  ribbing for 3 ”

Knit 2, kfb, k34, kfb, k2 (now you have 42 stitches on the needles)

knit 3, kfb, k34, kfb, k3

knit 4, kfb, k34, kfb, k4

knit 5, kfb, k34, kfb, k5

knit 6, kfb, k34, kfb, k6

knit 7, kfb, k34, kfb, k7

knit 8, kfb, k34, kfb, k8

knit 9, kfb, k34, kfb, k9

knit 10, kfb, k34, kfb, k10

knit 11, kfb, k34, kfb, k11

knit 12, kfb, k34, kfb, k12 (62 stitches total)

Arm holes

on next row knit 7, knit 7 on waste yarn, knit around to last 14 stitches, knit 7 on waste yarn, knit 7 with regular yarn.

Knit in stockinette (knit around) until body is 3″ long from arm holes

cast off last 10 stitches of next row

cast of 1st 10 stitches of the new row, k1, k2 tog, knit 36, k2 tog, k1

purl next row (sweater is now being worked flat)

knit 1, k2 tog, k34, k2tog, k1

purl next row

k1, k2tog, k32, k2tog, k1

purl

k1, k2tog, k30, k2tog, k1

purl

k1, k2tog, k28, k2tog, k1

purl

k1, k2tog, k26, k2tog, k1

purl

k1, k2tog, k24, k2tog, k1, don’t purl back! Pick up 20 stitches evenly around the cast off edge so you have 48 stitches.

do k1p1 ribbing for 1 inch and cast off.

Sleeves; remove the waste yarn and pick up the stitches.  In between the 2 rows grab a loop and twist it so that you don’t have a gap in the sleeves.  Do 1×1 ribbing around for 1 inch.

Sew in your ends and admire your work.

The short version, without all the row-by-row stuff.

cast on 40 sts, divide onto needles as follows, 10 on 1st needle, 20 on 2nd needles, 10 on 3rd needle. Join and knit in k1p1 ribbing for 3″ for turtleneck or 1.5 inches for crew neck, on last row place marker after 3rd stitch and before last 3 stitches.

Increasing for the body

Knit first 2 stitches, knit front and back of stitch before marker, knit around, knit front and back of stitch right after the last marker (you will have 42 stitches now).  repeat 10 more times for 62 stitches.

Leg holes and body

On next row, knit 7 sts with red, knit 7 stitches with waste yarn (that should take you to the stitch marker), knit around to the next stitch marker, knit 7 in waste yarn and then 7 in red.  Knit until body measures 3″ long from armholes.  On next row knit around and cast off last 10 stitches and 1st 10 stitches of next row.  Finish that row by knitting 1, k2tog, knit across to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.  Purl the next row.  Continue decreasing by knitting 1, k2tog at the beginning and k2tog, k1 at the end and purling back (so you have stockinette) 7 times total.  at the end of the last knit row, continue by picking up 20 stitches around the body and knit 1″ of 1×1 ribbing.

Finishing up (sleeves)

Pull out the waste yarn and pick up 14 stitches plus 2 extra loops on each side so you don’t get a big gap. k1p1 ribbing for 1″

Sew in all ends and admire your work.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.

September Answers

Hi everyone, this post is in response to some questions regarding how to knit my free pattern for Darby’s cabled sweater.  Sadly, the e-mail didn’t work and I couldn’t find her on ravelry, so here I am, making it open to everyone.

Hi September,

Ok, the sweater is knit in the round on three double pointed needles (like this: http://knitting-and.com/wiki/Knitting_With_Double_Pointed_Needles ) instead of being flat and sewn up afterward.  If you have a very small circular needles I’m sure you could use that or 2 circular needles at once Like this: http://www.az.com/~andrade/knit/twocirculars.html or the magic loop method (which I haven’t tried) like this: http://knitting-and.com/wiki/Magic_Loop
You can see why i might prefer knitting with the double pointed needles, it looks like the easiest out of the three, but everyone has their own prefence and many find the other methods comfortable.

B/O means to bind off your stitches, you might just say cast off instead: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/casting-off

Hope it all helps!
Autumn

In other news, I am on vacation!  I don’t know why our district has a fall break but I’m not going to argue with it.  I’ve been able to visit some friends and finish a sweater and hae taken some time to get my car worked on, so I would say it is a fairly successful vacation.  What I am finding odd is that I’m only getting 8 hours of sleep instead of my usual 10-12 hours of vacation time sleep and I am doing quite well with this.  Generally, as a vacation rolls on I go to bed later and later until it’s 2am and I’m making myself go to bed so that I wake up before noon.

Pictures of a super adorable toddler sweater coming very very soon.

1 pound puppy sweater

Hey Y’all!

I know it has been a ridiculous amount of time since I put up a new pup sweater.  This quick and dirty pattern was written for a knitter who left a comment mentioning her 1 lb puppy and her lack of 10.5 dpns.

So for your tiny puppy…
size 8 double pointed needles (or something close, hey, we can’t be too particular…the goal is a warm puppy, not certain needles)
regular or bulky yarn…probably something a little bulky.  (same thing….warm puppy, not some particular yarn)

Cast on 24, knit in a 2×2 rib for 1.5 inch (or 2.5-3″ for a little turtleneck or mock turtleneck).

Increase for chest shaping as follows (please note, your going to have a stockinette panel where the increases are, everythingelse should stay in the 2×2 rib):
Knit 1, increase 1, knit 1, increase 1 finish the round in 2×2 rib (26 sts total)

Next row: Knit 1, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 1…finish the round in 2×2 rib (28 sts total)

Next row: knit 2, increase 1, knit 4, increase 1, knit 2 finish the round in 2×2 rib (30 sts total)

your tube should be about 2 ” long…. more or less…remember, this is quick and dirty

Leg Holes:
Knit 4, cast off 6, knit 14, cast off 6
Next row: knit 4, cast on 6, knit 14, cast on 6

Body: Knit until it is as long as you feel it should be.  Then do an inch of 2×2 ribbing.

Well, I know this is a quick and sloppy pattern for you to use, but I hope it works out for you.

Autumn

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.

Most Adorable Nephew’s Chullo Hat Pattern!

I see all you people looking for chullo hat patterns

I’ve finished my nephews hat! And got a job offer! I may be moving to Stockton.

Blocked over cereal bowl and tin          Blocked over the tin only

Chullo Hat for a young child (about 4 years)

I’m not putting up color charts or anything, just basic, basic instructions so that you can make one too and colors listed on the side in case you want one like mine.

Lion Brand Wool-ease in 4 colors, red, light blue, goldenrod, and white

Size 8 needles, double pointed and 16″ circular.

Top Down:

Red: C/o 8 sts, divide evenly into 4 circular needles

Blue: KFB of each stitch (16 sts)

Gold: Kfb, k2, kfb, repeat to end (24 sts)

Gold: kfb, k4, kfb, repeat to end (32)

Red: kfb, k6, kfb, repeat to end (40)

Red: kfb, k8, kfb, repeat to end (48)

Red: kfb, k10, kfb, repeat to end (56)

Red: kfb, k12, kfb, repeat to end (64)

White: kfb, k14, kfb, repeat to end (72)

Blue: kfb, k16, kfb, repeat to end (80)

These are the patterns I used if you want to make exactly the same thing…otherwise, just knit until the piece is 6″ long from the last decrease or however long, I don’t have kids and am guessing on the length…fair warning.

1 Blue Row

2 Gold Row’s

Diamond pattern

Knit 1 Red, 3 Gold, Repeat

Knit 2 red, 1 gold, 1 red, repeat

Red Row

knit 2 red, 1 gold, 1 red, repeat around

Knit 1 red, 3 gold

2 Gold row’s

2 White Row’s

Square Pattern

Knit 2 blue, knit 2 white, repeat around

Knit 2 blue, knit 2 white, repeat around

knit 2 rows white

Knit 2 rows red

knit 1 row gold

knit 2 rows red

2 rows blue (I accidentally made an extra one on mine…don’t do that)

Knit 1 gold, knit 3 blue, repeat around

Knit 1 blue, knit 1 gold, knit 1 blue, knit 1 gold, repeat around

knit 2 blue, knit 1 gold, knit 1 blue, repeat around

knit 2 rows blue

checker row

knit 1 red, knit 1 white, knit 1 red, knit 1 white, repeat around

knit 1 white, knit 1 red, knit 1 white, knit 1 red, repeat around

knit 2 rows white

Now it’s time for earflaps!

White: cast off 20, knit 18, cast off 24, knit 18

Ear flaps: knit k rows in stockinette (white yarn for 2 rows and blue yarn for 4 rows)

gold: k1, k2tog, k12, k2tog, k1 (16)

gold: k1, k2tog, k10, k2tog, k1 (14)

red: k1, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k1 (12)

red: k1, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k1 (10)

red: k1, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k1 (8)

red: k1, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1 (6)

red: k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1 (4)

To make a liner, repeat the whole thing, put’em together and crochet the edges together

 

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.

Bob’s Hat Pattern

Here is the pattern for Bob’s hat.  It is meant to fit an average male head, but I didn’t pack extra yarn in my carry-on, so I’m modifying it for you all to make a better length.

Size 5 16″ round needles and dpn’s

Worsted weight yarn (I use Lion Brand Wool-ease in Blue Mist)

 

 Term: MiniCable Knit into 2nd stitch on left needle and without taking stitch off needle knit into 1st stitch, then take them both off the needle.  You’ll have a little cable.  There are a variety of explanations here too.

 

C/O 104 sts loosely.  Join.

Knit in a k2, p2 rib for 2″

MiniCable Round: MiniCable the knit sts and purl the purl sts.  Knit 4 rounds, Repeat until hat is 8″ high (9 for men)

Begin Decrease.  While decreasing continue to follow minicable pattern whenever possible.  Divide sts evenly on 4 needles (26 sts on each needle).  K2 tog at the beginning and end of each section. Continue until 8 sts are left, thread yarn through sts and close off.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.

Free Pattern for the A-Line Ruffled Dog Sweater Dress

You knew it was coming…the embarrassingly girly Ruffled Sweater Dress: an A-Line dress with ruffled neck and hem and a bow to give the appearance of an empire waist. This time in 2 sizes, size 10″ for 3-4.5 lb dogs with a 10″-11″ circumference around the waist/ribcage and size 12″-14″ for pups 4.5-7lbs.

Added 11/01/08: I”m sorry crocheters, I cannot write you a crocheted version.

Supplies

#6 double point needles

#6 16″ circular (not necessary, but it sure would help)

worsted weight yarn (I used baby yarn, which seems to be on the skinny side for worsted) in 2 colors. 1 main color and 1 complementary color.  (I used about half a skein for the 10″ and maybe .70 skein for the 12″)

Ribbon in complementary color, approx 2 feet.

2 large safety pins

Optional: Medium crochet hook (for sleeves, or you can use the knitting needles)

10″ will be listed in directions with the 12″ size in parenthesis.

Ruffled neck

Cast on 80 (120)

Join, being sure not to twist.

knit 2, k2tog around : 60 sts (90 sts)

k1, k2 tog: 40 sts (60 sts)

k2tog around: 20 sts (30)

knit in stockinette until piece is 1″ long (1 1/2″ long) these are really approximate because the ruffles make it hard to measure

Begin Increases

K3, kfb, k12, kfb, k3: 22 sts (k6, kfb, k16, kfb, k6 :32 sts)

K3, kfb, k14, kfb, k3: 24 sts (k6, kfb, k18, kfb, k6: 34sts)

K3, kfb, k16, kfb, k3: 26 sts (k6, kfb, k20, kfb, k6: 36sts)

K3, kfb, k18, kfb, k3: 28 sts (k6, kfb, k22, kfb, k6: 38sts)

K3, kfb, k20, kfb, k3: 30 sts (k6, kfb, k24, kfb, k6: 40sts)

K3, kfb, k22, kfb, k3: 32 sts (k6, kfb, k26, kfb, k6: 42sts)

K3, kfb, k24, kfb, k3: 34 sts (k6, kfb, k28, kfb, k6: 44sts)

K3, kfb, k26, kfb, k3: 36 sts (k6, kfb, k30, kfb, k6: 46sts)

K3, kfb, k28, kfb, k3: 38 sts (k6, kfb, k32, kfb, k6: 48sts)

K3, kfb, k30, kfb, k3: 40 sts (k6, kfb, k34, kfb, k6: 50sts)

K3, kfb, k32, kfb, k3: 42 sts (k6, kfb, k36, kfb, k6: 52sts)

K3, kfb, k34, kfb, k3: 44 sts (k6, kfb, k38, kfb, k6: 54sts)

K3, kfb, k36, kfb, k3: 34 sts (k6, kfb, k40, kfb, k6: 56sts)

Leg Holes

These are always tricky for me to explain, so if it sounds a little weird, thats my fault. Please note I use a reverse loop cast on to return the stitches I bound off and then I knit through the back of each loop for a slightly less sloppy finish.

K4, b/o 8, k20, b/o 8, k4 (k6, b/o 8, k28, b/o 8, k6)

K4, c/o 8, k20, c/o 8, k4 (k6, c/o 8, k28, c/o 8, k6)

Body

To make an A-Line dress we are going to use some gradual increases along the sides of the dress, where the “seams” would be. You can use the method of increasing you like, I use kfb (knit front and back of the stitch) because it doesn’t leave the hole you would get with a yarn over increase

Knit 5 rows then:

k10, kfb, K22, kfb, k10 (K13, kfb, k28, kfb, k13)

Knit 5 more rows then:

K11, kfb, k22, kfb, k11 (k14, kfb, k28, kfb, k14)

Knit 5 more rows then:

K 11, kfb, k24, kfb, k11 (k14, kfb, k30, kfb, k14)

Knit 5 more rows then:

K12, kfb, k24, kfb, k12 (k15, kfb, k30, kfb, k15)

Knit 5 more rows then:

K12, Kfb, k26, kfb, k12 (k15, kfb, k32, kfb, k15)

Knit 5 more rows then:begin ruffled hem (k16, kfb, k32, kfb, k16)

(Knit 5 more rows <size 12″ only>)

Ruffled Hem

kfb of each stitch (kfb of each stitch)

k1, kfb around (k1, kfb around)

k2, kfb around (k2, kfb around)

Bind off.

2nd ruffle (petticoat) and Neck Ruffle

With contrasting color: On inside of dress pick up all stitches from the row before you began the ruffled hem. Knit in stockinette for 1 inch or until the contrasting color is same length as original ruffle. Knit 2nd ruffle in same direction as original ruffled hem.

For neck ruffle: do same thing, but at the top of the dress 😉

Sleeves

With Contrasting Color:

With Crochet hook pick up all sts and crochet around until the sleeves are long enough for your taste (I did 1 row of double crochet and 1 row of single crochet)

-or-

Pick up all stitches and knit 5 rounds (or until it is as long as you like)

Ribbon

Put the dress on your pup and using the safety pins mark behind the front legs (on the sides of the dress). Crochet loops to hold ribbon in place. Tie bow, admire how cute she looks.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.

Ruffled Dog Sweater: The Laughter Ensue’s

“Mwah hah hah hah ha ha ha….*cough….

Hah Hah Ha ha ha ha mhaw hah….”

 

I normally dress Darby in colors associated with boys. I think she looks particularly good in red, sho thats my favorite sweater for her. Now, Vicki (who I am knitting puppy sweaters for) is much more into the girly colors and likes her little girls to look like..well, little girls. So this is the dress for Sophie, her mid-sized pup (3-3.5lb), although I know it will fit Bella (at 4.5-5lbs it’d just be a bit short) I still need to add a bow at the waistline. This dress is based off of a design in “Posh Pooches“. When I say “based off of” I mean here’s this picture of an a-line dress in there and I kinda read the pattern, but the yarn was too small and the needles were too small and I can’t do a picot edge, so I made a dress that kinda looks like it. The pattern will be coming as soon as I type it up, but being that my roommate and his daughter will both be home tomorrow (school holiday, y’all!) I know that my only time on the computer will be after 10pm and I have work too, so it’s probably a bad idea. Must get full time job, so I can buy a laptop!

 

Wish me luck, I have an interview Wednesday!

Oh yeah, another view. Please note, I’m allowed to laugh at Darby as she loves me and hates trying on clothes.

 

It’s Autumn!

Above: It’s got my name all over it

The Pilot Hat is coming along quite nicely. using a traditional Norwegian charted pattern found here (or you can got to the website and check out all her resources) and lion brand woolease in a heathered light blue and white.

And now for a moment of Darby…

Double Cable Chihuahua Sweater

Double Cable Chi Sweater

For those few of you following my blog, thank you.You’re probably here because you have a special little Chihuahua in your life in dire need of a sweater also and you, too, have the ability to knit.I present to you dear readers, Darby’s latest sweater.If you can’t do cables, just follow the instructions without actually doing the cables or purls, and you’ll have a straight forward sweater.If you want to add sleeves, the instructions are written in the previous sweater pattern, I just ran out of the main color (started with a ball of the main color about the size of a tennis ball).

This week’s sweater is made with lion brand wool-ease.I used 2 colors, 1 brown and 1 red (who keeps the labels of yarn leftovers?Not me, I prefer losing them immediately and wondering what kind of yarn it is I have)

Please note, I can’t explain how to do cables, so I’ll describe them to you.The sweater has two cables that go in opposite directions.Each cable is made of 4 sts, with 2 crossing over the other two.From here on out, I’m just going to put cable where one will be done.

Recipe

Main color

Contrasting color

Notions:

Size 8 dpns

Cable needle

Needle for sewing in loose ends

Neck

Cast on 28 stitches in contrasting color

Distribute over 3 needles as follows: 9, 10, 9

Join and knit in 2×2 rib for 2”

Switch to main color and straight stitch and increase as follows:

Please note the center needle will always have k4, p2, k4 for your cables

Begin Increase shaping for the legs

1)k2, kfb, k4, p2, /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k4, kfb, k2 (30 stitches total)

2)k2, kfb, k5, p2, /k4, p2, k4/,p2, k5, kfb, k2 (32 stitches total)

3)k2, kfb, k6, p2,/k4, p2, k4/,P2, k6, kfb, k2 (34)

4)k2, kfb, k7, p2,/k4, p2, k4/,p2, k7, kfb, k2 (36)

5)k2, kfb, k8, p2,/Cable left with 1^st 4 sts, p2, cable right with 2^nd 4 sts/,p2, k8, kfb, k2 (38 stitches)

6)k2, kfb, k9, p2,/k4, p2, k4/,p2, k9, kfb, k2 (40)

7)k2, kfb, k10, p2,/k4, p2, k4/,p2, k10, kfb, k2 (42)

8 )k2, kfb, k11, p2,/k4, p2, k4/,p2, k11, kfb, k2 (44)

9)k2, kfb, bind off 8 sts, k4, p2/ k4, p2, k4/,p2, k4, bind off 8 sts, kfb, k2 (46)

10)k2, kfb, k1, cast on 8,k4, p2,/cable, p2, cable/,p2, k4, cast on 8,k1, kfb, k2 (48 )

11)k2, kfb, k14, p2,/k4, p2, k4/,p2, k17, kfb, k2 (50)

12)k2, kfb, k15, p2,/k4, p2, k4/,p2, k15, kfb, k2(52)

13)k19, p2, /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k19 (52)

14)k19, p2, /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k19 (52)

15)k19, p2,/cable, p2, cable/, p2, k19 (52)

16)k19, p2, /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k19 (52)

17)k19, p2, /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k19 (52)

18 )k19, p2, /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k19 (52)

19)k19, p2, /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k19 (52)

20)k19, p2,/cable, p2, cable/, p2, k19 (52)

21)k19, p2, /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k19 (52)

22)k19, p2, /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k19 (52)

23)k19, p2, /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k19 (52)

24)k19, p2, /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k19 (52)

25)k19, p2,/cable, p2, cable/, p2, k19 (52)

26)k19, p2, /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k19 (52)

27)k19, p2, /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k19 (52)

28 )k19, p2, /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k19 (52)

29)k19, p2, /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k19 (52)

Begin decrease shaping for the narrowest part of the body, past the ribs

30)k2, k2tog, k15, p2,/cable, p2, cable/, p2, k15, sl1, k1, psso, k2 (50)

31)k18, p2, /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k18 (50)

32)k2, k2tog, k14, p2, /k4, p2, k4/. P2, k14, sl1, k1, psso, k2 (48 )

33)k17, p2, /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k17 (48 )*

34)k2, k2tog, k13, p2 /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k13, sl1, k1, psso, k2 (46)

35)k16, p2, /cable, p2, cable/, p2, k16 (46)

36)k2, k2tog, k12, p2, /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k12, sl1, k1, psso, k2 (44)

37)k15, p2, /k4, p2, k4/, p2, k15 (44)

38 )with Contrasting color begin 2×2 rib for 2 inches

*Please note, I stopped decreasing here for Darby’s sweater, but added some more shaping and an additional cable because it is a little shorter than I would like.If you wanted, you could continue with the cable without the decreasing by repeating #33 until you get to #35, doing a cable, and then doing #33 2 more times.Your choice.My Darby has a nice healthy lean shape, so the additional shaping wouldn’t be an issue, but if your little Chihuahua is more “robust” you may want to follow the steps as written in asterisks.

She is tired of all the cameras.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.

Darby’s Cabled Sweater Pattern (Chihuahua Sweater)

As promised, a free knit sweater pattern for your extra small dog.

……She’s so cute and warm and sleepy from all the modeling……

For those of you new to my blog (thats everyone but me) Darby is my adorable 3lb 1oz chihuahua who spends most of her time asleep on my lap and is the owner of an ever increasing sweater collection. Now that it is starting to rain and get colder in the Pacific Northwest she is more that happy to wear a sweater or two.

As promised to my blog reader, I’ve rewritten Darby’s sweater pattern and (hopefully) corrected any errors. This time, it has a cable on the back, ribbing at the top and bottom (to prevent rolling and give it a nice stretch) and shaping along the center, between the legs so it is fitted all the way along the body. I am working on a new pattern and trying some different methods of shaping the see if I can get an even nicer finished look. I apologize in advance for the awful harvest gold color, it was a stash-busting opportunity for me.

Lion brand Woolease

Size 8 double pointed needles

I hate sewing edges, so whenever possible, I will knit in the round. Naturally, I make a lot of hats. This sweater will start out at 24 inches, increasing for the chest area and then adding leg holes. I have added a cable along the back. If you don’t want to do that, just knit all the way across each row and do the increases and decreases the same. It may come out a little looser though.

Cast on 24 sts loosely, divide equally over 3 needles, 8 sts each needle, join together (this will be the bottom center, between the legs area)

Do a k2, p2 rib for 2 inches

Begin increases for chest

Switch to straight stitch

kfb of first stitch, k7, p1, k6, p1, k7, kfb of last stitch (26 sts)

Kfb, k 8, p1,k6, p1, k8, kfb, (28 sts)

Kfb, k9, p1, k6, p1, k9, kfb (30)

Kfb, k10, p1, k6, p1, k10, kfb (32)

Kfb, k 11, p1, k6, p1, k11, kfb (34)

Kfb, k12, p1, do a cable crossover here, (pick up the 1^st 3 sts to be knitted and put on cable needle, k the next 3 sts and then knit the 3 sts on the cable needle), p1, k12, kfb (36)

Kfb, k13, p1,k6, p1, k13, kfb (38)

Kfb, K14, p1, k6, p1, k14, kfb (40)

Making leg holes

Kfb, k3, bind off 7, k to end of needle, p1, k6, p1 (center needle) k6, bind off 7, k2, kfb
Just to make sure I’ve explained this right, you will have 4 sts, 7 bound off and 6 more sts on 1^st needle, 8 sts on 2^nd needle, and 6 sts, 7 bound off, and 4 sts on last needle for a total of 28

Kfb, k 3, cast on 7 (I do this by making a backwards loop on my needle for each cast on st.), k6, p1, k6, p1, k6, c/o 7, k3, kfb (44)

Kfb, k 17, p1, k6, p1, k17, kfb (46)

K19, p1, make cable, p1, k19

K19, p1, k6, p1, k19

K19, p1, k6, p1, k19

K19, p1, k6, p1, k19

K19, p1, k6, p1, k19

K19, p1, k6, p1, k19

K19, p1, make cable, p1, k19

K19, p1, k6, p1, k19

K19, p1, k6, p1, k19

SSK, k17, p1, k6, p1, k17, sl1, k1, psso (44)

K18, p1, k6, p1, k18

K18, p1, k6, p1, k18

K18, p1, make cable, p1, k18

K18, p1, k6, p1, k18

K18, p1, k6, p1, k18

Ssk, k16, p1, k6, p1, k16, sl 1, k1, psso. (42)

K17, p1, k6, p1, k17

K17, p1, k6, p1, k17

K17, p1, make cable, p1, k17

K17, p1, k6, p1, k17

K17, p1, k6, p1, k17

Ssk, k15, p1, k6, p1, k15, slip 1, k1, psso (40)

K2, p2 ribbing for 1 inch, bind off loosely.

Sleeves
Pick up the 14 stitches around the sleeve hole plus an extra by grabbing one of the stitches in between the bound off rows for 16 sts total. Knit for 8 rows and bind off loosely.

Finishing

Sew in all loose threads. (I hate this part)

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